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WHAT IS QUALITY? What would someone mean by the
quality of a shoe? Let us suppose that it is a man’s shoe that he is asking
about. Does he mean by good quality that it wears a long time? Or that it takes
a shine well? That is feels comfortable? That it is waterproof? That the price
is right in consideration of whatever he considers quality? Or it is good in
design? Put another way, what quality-characteristics are important to the
customer? - Deming
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WHAT IS QUALITY? • Product quality is based on a
product attribute. How will you differentiate the quality between woven shirt
and sweater? • User-based quality is fitness for use, How will you differentiate
the quality between women garments and kids garments as a wearer? •
manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements, Which quality
parameters will be followed when manufacturing thermal wear and sweat jacket? •
value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable price Zara
jacket or mango jackets are products gives value for money
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QUALITY types? Assurance: The act of giving
confidence, the state of being certain or the act of making certain. Quality
Assurance: The planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system
so that quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled.
Control: An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses; the act of
guiding a process in which variability is attributable to a constant system of
chance causes. Quality Control: The observation techniques and activities used
to fulfill requirements for quality.
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DEFINITIONS OF QUALITY • Conformance to
specifications • The degree to which a product or • service meets the needs of
the • customer • Uniformity around a customerdefined target • Exceeding customer
expectations The customer is the most important part of the process.
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IMPACT OF HIGHER QUALITY ON VALUE LESS WAIST
LESS REWORK HIGHER QUALITY FEW REJECTION LESS BACKLOG FEW COMPLAINT S FEW
RETURNS LOWER COST HIGH PRODUCTIVI TY HIGHER VALUE
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QUALITY MUST BE CONSIDER AT ALL STAGES IN THE
LIFE CYCLE, AS SHOWN BELOW, OF A PRODUCT. MARKETING & MARKET RESEARCH
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE & MAINTENANCE DISPOSA L REQUIREMENT S&
SPECIFICATION DESIGN& DEVELOPME NT INSTALLATI ON& OPERATION PROCUREME NT
SALES& DISTRIBUTI ON PACKAGING & STORAGE PROCESS PLANNING &
DEVELOPMENT PRODUCTIO N INSPECTION, TESTING & EXAMINATION
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Quality inspection in apparel industries “Visual
examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of
garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards,
specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring garments to check if they
meet the required measurements.”
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QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES • Do to
control quality of garments. • Checking of fabric, • Sewing thread, • Button, •
Stitching, • Zipper and other trims, • Garments measurements/size etc according
to required standard or specification is known as inspection. Quality inspection
is important for every section of apparel industries.
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STEPS IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES TO CONTROL QUALITY
RAW MATERIAL INSPECTION IN PROCESS INSPECTION FINAL INSPECTION
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RAW MATERIALS INSPECTION It is done for the raw
materials which are used in the apparel production like fabric, sewing thread,
button, other accessories etc. It is also termed as ‘incoming material
inspection. Normally this is mainly done for fabrics using 4 point system or 10
point system.
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ONLINE OR IN-PROCESS INSPECTION This is done
during the manufacturing process so that if there is any problem in the process
that will be rectified in that stage itself. This will be carried out by the
quality controllers periodically say every two or three hours. They will check
the measurement and defects and make the inspection report which will be
intimated to the
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FINAL INSPECTION This inspection is done after
the goods are manufactured and packed in carton boxes and which are ready for
the shipment. The goods are inspected and will be graded as per acceptable
quality level (AQL) which is prescribed by the buyer. The goods can be shipped
after the final inspection is
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QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES IN
SAMPLE MAKING SECTION IN-MARKER MAKING SECTION INSPECTION IN FABRIC SPREADING
SECTION INSPECTION IN FABRIC CUTTING SECTION INSPECTION IN FABRIC SEWN SECTION
INSPECTION IN PRESSING & FINISHING SECTION
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QUALITY INSPECTION IN SAMPLING MAINTAINING BUYER
SPECIFICATION STANDARD CHECKING THE SAMPLE AND ITS DIFFERENT ISSUES MEASUREMENTS
CHECKING FABRIC COLOR, GSM, FASTNESS ETC PROPERTIES REQUIRED CHECKING SPI AND
OTHER PARAMETER CHECKING ANY OTHER DETAILING CHECKING
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QUALITY CONTROL IN MARKER MAKING TO CHECK NOTCH
OR DRILL MARK FABRIC WIDTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER WIDTH FABRIC LENGTH MUST
BE HIGHER THAN MARKER LENGTH MATCHING OF GREEN LINE CHECK PATTERN SIZE AND
DIMENSION MATCHING OF CHECK AND STRIPE TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION CONSIDERING
GARMENTS PRODUCTION PLAN PATTERN DIRECTION CONSIDERATION
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QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC SPREADING FABRIC
SPREADING ACCORDING TO CORRECT ALIGNMENT WITH MARKER LENGTH AND WIDTH MAINTAIN
REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING LAY CONTAINS CORRECT NUMBER OF FABRIC PLY CORRECT PLY
DIRECTION TO CONTROL THE FABRIC SPLICING TENSION CONTROL
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QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC CUTTING The dimension
of the pattern and the cut piece should be same and accurate CUT EDGE SHOULD BE
SMOOTH AND CLEAN NOTCH SHOULD BE CUT FINELY DRILL HOLE SHOULD MADE AT PROPER
PLACE NO YARN FRAYING SHOULD OCCUR AT CUT EDGE AVOID BLADE DEFLECTION MAINTAIN
CUTTING ANGLE MORE SKILLED OPERATOR USING
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QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING SECTION INPUT MATERIAL
CHECKING CUT PANEL AND ACCESSORIES CHECKING THREAD COUNT MACHINE IS IN WELL
CONDITION CHECK SPECIAL WORK LIKE EMBROIDERY, PRINTING PANEL CHECK NEEDLE SIZE
STITCHING FAULT SHOULD BE CHECKING CHECKED GARMENTS MEASUREMENT SEAM FAULT CHECK
CHECK MISMATCHING MATCHING OF TRIMMING WRONG PLACEMENT OF INTERLINING SIZE
MISTAKE CHECK SHADE VARIATION WITHIN THE CLOTH CREASED OR WRINKLE APPEARANCE
CONTROL
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QUALITY CONTROL IN FINISHING SECTION Proper
inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt, impurities Water
spot SHADING VARIATION CHECK WRONG FOLD SMOOTH AND UNFOLD IN POCKET IN SECURED
OR BROKEN CHAIN OR BUTTON WANTED WRINKLE OR FOLD IN LINING PROPERLY DRIED IN
AFTER COLLAR CLOSING PRESSING SIDE SLEEVE PLACKET GET UP CHECKING SEAM ATTACH
EVERY PARTS OF A CUFF BACK YOKE ATTACH BODY BOTTOM HEM PROPER SHAPE IN GARMENTS
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FABRIC INSPECTION • Done through Fabric
Inspection machine. • Very important for every industries . • In fabric
inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are there any defect
available or not. In fabric, fabric defects viz. off shade or shade variation,
hole in fabric, barre effect etc. can be visual after entering into the store
room. For those defects it will be problem able for making garments making. • In
fabric inspection, also test fabric strength, color, quantity • To check fabric
there are different system i.e. 4 point system, 10 point system etc.
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FABRIC INSPECTION
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FABRIC INSPECTION
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FABRIC INSPECTION
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SEWING THREAD INSPECTION During stitching fabric
frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of the great problems for garments
manufacturing. So that it is necessary to check •THREAD CONSTRUCTION,
•SEWABILITY, •COLOR, •IMPERFECTION, •FINISH, PACKAGE •THREAD NUMBER, •THREAD
PLY, •THREAD TENACITY, •THREAD ELONGATION, •WINDING, •YARDAGE OF SEWING THREAD.
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TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES INSPECTION The final
quality of any garment is also affected by trims and accessories applied in it.
So that it is necessary to check •BUTTON, •ZIPPERS •INTERLINING, •LABEL &
•TAGS also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to required
quality. FOR BUTTON, •BUTTON STRENGTH, •BUTTON COLOR, •QUANTITY ETC ARE CHECKED.
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IN PROCESS INSPECTION • Inspecting different
parts of garments before sewing are called in process inspection. • It starts
from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric cutting, fabric sewing,
pressing or finishing checking is done in process. • • • • • • • • MARKER MAKING
FABRIC SPREADING FABRIC CUTTING SORTING/ BUNDLING FABRIC SEWING SEAM DEFECTS
ASSEMBLY DEFECTS PRESSING/ FINISHING DEFECTS
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PATTERN GRADING DEFECTS 1. Grade Not Conforming
to Specification measurements •Finished product not measuring to specified
dimension •component parts not fitting in relationship to notches, •openings and
seams such as armholes sleeve heads neck bands, •neck openings and side seams
inseams, •waist measurements and etc. 2. Distorted Grading: •Unbalanced patterns
which would cause twisted seams, •puckering, •pleating and •a general
uneconomical yardage waste.
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MARKER
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MARKER INSPECTION • It is necessary to check all
the parts of garments pattern are in marker. • In marker labelling or coding of
pattern should be checked • Pattern direction should be checked. • Pattern grain
line is very important thing which must be considered during marker making. •
During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate. • During
marker making fabric length and width should be considered.
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MARKER INSPECTION •Notches & drill marks
•Knife clearance •Checks and stripes (mittering) •Marker width
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MARKING DEFECTS Shaded Parts:-All component pans
not included in same section. Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together
without puckering or pleating. Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not
lit together, causing twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of
component parts. Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of
pattern. Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.
Marker Too W ide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or
requiring results.
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MARKER DEFECTS Pattern moved after partially
marked to fit into space. Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material
Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match. Misdirected
Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped fabrics.
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SPREADING
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SPREADING INSPECTION Factors which must be
checked •Fabric Nature •Ply alignment •Ply tension/slackness •Bowing •Splicing
•Grain-line •Shade variation •Selvedge alignment & tightness •Fabric width
•Checks •Static electricity
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SPREADING DEFECTS 1. Uneven Spreading:-Front
edge o f lay is not even, resulting in front or back edge of marker not catching
all ply. 2. Narrow Material:-Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover
marker width. 3. Missed Sectional Breaks:-Sectional marker breaks too long or
too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted. 4. Improper
Tension:-Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to fit in sewing
or distorting dimensions of garments. 5. Mismatching Plaids:-Material spread too
loose or too tight causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow. 6. Misdirected
Napping:-Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed in spreading. 7.
Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face up or face to
face as required.
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FRAYED EDGE
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FUZZY, RAGGED OR SERRATED EDGES
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CUTTING INSPECTION Marker Making ↓ Fabric
Spreading ↓ Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay ↓ Fabric Cutting ↓ Numbering ↓
100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed. ↓ Shorting & Bundling ↓
Sewing/Assembling
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CUTTING INSPECTION •Ply to ply fusion •Single
edge fusion •Pattern precision •Notches & drillers •Cutting Equipment
precision
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CUTTING DEFECTS 1. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets
or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes
or land shades. 2. Drill Marks:-Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular,
omitted or wrong side drill used. 3. Opening Slits:-Cut under above to the side
or at incorrect angle. Not cut through entire bundle or omitted. 4. Improper
Cutting:-Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting knife
lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes. 5. Notches:-Misplaced,
too deep, too shallow or omitted. 6. Oil Spots:-Equipment improperly oiled or
cleaned. 7. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on
bundles.
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SORTING/ BUNDLING It is necessary to check
numbering, sorting, and bundling is done accurately. DEFECTS 1. Not Stacked in
Numerical Order: Bundle numbers not in order on rack skid or box. 2. Matching
Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.
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SEWING INSPECTION • • • • • • • • • Stitching
Defects Needle damage Skipped stitch Thread breaks Seam pucker Wrong stitch
density Uneven stitch Staggered stitch Improperly formed stitch
- Skip stitches •Improper threading. •Poor clamping or insufficient pressure
(flagging). •The needle needs replacing. •Wrong size needle. •Wrong type of
needle for the material. •Lubrication. •Wrong thread for the application. •Poor
quality thread. •Needle size and thread weight are mismatched. •Worn thread
guides, paths or eyelets
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